Big Daddy Progress #3

Meanwhile in frustratingville….

Wow this tank is giving me some serious issues. I made the crochet tank really easily. Once I found the mini M&M tube it was magic. I crochet around that tube to make the tank and then did it again smaller for the other part of the tank. The tank is the battery housing so it needed that extra structure since it couldn’t be stuffed.

Then I bought a brown zipper and attached it by hand inside of each little tank piece. Done!

For the valve I glued wires bent into an L on the top of the M&M tube so the valve would be secured inside of the crochet without having to do anything strange. Then I could just poke the wires through the top and then crochet over them. The wire created the cross bars of the knob. I just had to crochet over them. I actually ended up technically knitting over them. I did a cast-on for each little bar! haha! Worked out well.

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For the red knob I made a crochet cord and then slowly worked a wire through the middle and then bent it into shape. Then I needed to twist the wire on itself and stitch over the little bit that peaked out.

I bent each of the gray wires up at a 90 degree angle and fed them through the red yarn so I could twist each one around the red’s wire to secure the crossbars to the knob.

The electrical side gave me some issues.

I used the M&M tube lid to secure the switches. I made a little housing for them and filled it up with hot glue so they’d be super solid.

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A post broke off one of my switches so I had to take the whole thing apart and replace it. Then the hot glue kept getting into the switch. I had to tape the switch up to keep the glue from getting inside of it. It was a hot glue mess! The hot glue melted the first housing so I had to cut a new one. Oy. Finally got it all done and tested so it *should* work. I’m really hoping it does.

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Tomorrow I’m going to make a skeleton for him so hopefully he’ll stand on his own. I took all of his limbs off today. That was a pain in the butt so I’m hoping it’ll be worth it tomorrow. I really want him to stand on his own!

Big Daddy Progress #1

bigdaddy

The very first thing I had to figure out with Big Daddy was whether or not I could light up his face. I wanted something epic and lights in his face would be pretty epic.

How the heck do you put holes into crochet?! My first prototype was just a crochet head that I planned on pushing lights through but the crochet was too tight. Next I tried to make button holes and line those up in the correct pattern which might have worked but it was impossibly hard. Eventually I had my eureka moment and made a bunch of open magic rings to sew together.

Once I figure out the magic ring trick I just had to adjust the size of my magic rings and my hook to get the right size helmet.

bigdaddyface
All 8 magic rings sewn together to make the portholes in his helmet.

The next problem I ran into was how do I turn this into a half sphere??

My solution was to crochet around the perimeter equally to create a guide for where I wanted my sphere to be. So what I did was single crochet across the tops of the circles and then chain between the gaps making sure to keep everything even so it made a nice rounded shape. I essentially created a guide to fill in the holes. I made some tiny crochet square patches and sewed them into the square holes. Then I crocheted in the triangle spaces with tiny crochet triangles. All of the leftover holes I sewed closed and magically I had a half sphere face. You can see what all of that looked like below in the lit face.

With the solid face I could then just single crochet around that initial chain I did. I was careful to keep my stitches even and go around like normal from there.

On to the engineering side! Lights!

I needed to create some kind of lens to fill the holes with. Well hot glue is a great diffuser but needs a mold. I found a plastic straw that happened to be the perfect size of the holes and wrapped it in foil to create a mold of sorts. Then I could fill that foil tube up with hot glue and set it to harden. I picked it up slightly to let some hot glue ooze out to create a base.

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glueeyes

Peeling the foil off was a pain in the butt but I managed to pick most of the foil off of each little “eye”. After they were all de-foiled I trimmed them down to fit flush with the crochet. The base I made kept them from just popping right out.

Before I could secure them all into place I had to keep the light from escaping through the crochet fabric. I decided to line the inside of the head in foil. After it was all lined I could fill the whole thing with hot glue. It was actually really fun filling it up with hot glue 😀

filledhotglue

Next up, lights! Yay!!!

I bought some ridiculously bright LEDs and a on-off-on switch so I can have a yellow light and a red light. The prototype worked out well so this was exciting!

prorotype

The lights were all soldered nicely with a 2 AAA battery pack and a 47ohm resistor for each light. I installed the lights by…. MORE HOT GLUE! Hot glue is my friend. They work beautifully. Better than I imagined.

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His body is next!

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles

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Materials

worsted weight yarn in green, golden yellow, light brown, and one of (purple, red, orange, or blue).
tapestry needle
stuffing
safety eyes
3.75mm hook (size not important, use whatever crochets tightly)

Abbreviations
mr: magic ring (example “mr 4” means 4sc inside a mr)
sc: single crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
blo: back loop only
hdc: half double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
f/o: fasten-off

Contact:
Like me on Facebook! Nichole’s Nerdy Knots
E-mail: nichole_dunigan@yahoo.com
Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/designers/nicholes-nerdy-knots
Download PDF: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/teenage-mutant-ninja-turtle-2

Head
Round 1: mr 7
Round 2: inc around (14)
Round 3: (sc, inc) around (21)
Round 4: (2sc, inc) around (28)
Round 5: (3sc, inc) around (35)
Round 6-10: sc around (5 rounds) (35)
Round 11: 10sc, 15inc, 10sc (50)
Round 12-13: sc around (2 rounds) (50)
Round 14: (3sc, dec) around (40)
Round 15: (2sc, dec) around (30)
Round 16: (sc, dec) around (20)
Round 17: dec around (10)
Round 18: sc around (10)
f/o, use tail to sew hole closed

Mask
ch enough to go around head with plenty to tie
Row 1-2: sc across, turn (2 rows)

The tails (that you tie) of the mask will be tapered so you need to find where the mask lays against the head and where the tails will be.

Row 3: sl st the tail, sc across, sl st tail
f/o

Legs
Make 2
round 1: mr 8
round 2: (sc, inc) around
round 3: blo sc around
round 4-15: sc around (12 rounds)
sl st f/o first leg only

Second leg, ch 2, remove from hook. Insert hook into a stitch from the first leg and pull through the ch 2 loop.

legs

Body
Continuing from the legs (legs and the body are one piece). You will have to manipulate the legs to start round one in the ch 2. Ignore the direction of the hook in the picture.
legs2

Round 1: ch 1, sc around including 2 sc in ch 2 on both sides so it will be: 2 in ch 2, 12sc around, 2 in ch 2, 12sc around) (28)
Round 2-3: sc around (2 rounds) (28)
Round 4: 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 18sc, inc, 2sc, inc (32)
Round 5-7: sc around (3 rounds) (32)
Round 8: 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 22sc, inc, 2sc, inc (36)
Round 9-14: sc around (6 rounds) (36)
Round 15: 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 3sc, dec (32)
Round 16: 10sc, dec, 14sc, dec, 4sc (30)
Round 17: 10sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc (28)
Round 18: 10sc, dec, 12sc, dec, 2sc (26)
Round 19: 10sc, dec, 11sc, dec, sc (24)
Round 20: (2sc, dec) around (18)
Round 21: (sc, dec) around (12)
Round 22: sc around (12)
sl st f/o

Arms
Make 2
Round 1: mr 6
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3-6: sc around (4 rounds) (12)
Round 7: 3dec, 4sc, dec (8)
Round 8: (sc, inc) around (12)
Round 9-11: sc around (3 rounds) (12)
Round 12: (sc, dec) around (8)
Round 13: (3sc, inc) around (10)
Round 14-17: sc around (4 rounds) (10)
Round 18: dec around (5)

Fingers
flatten arm and sc through both layers (3sc)
ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st to 1st sc along the hand
repeat for 2nd finger, sl st into 2nd sc along the hand
repeat for 3rd finger, sl st into 3rd sc along the hand
f/o

Feet
(modified from WolfDreamer)
Make 2
Round 1: mr 6
Round 2-3: sc around (2 rounds) (6)
Round 4: inc around (12)
Round 5-6: sc around (2 rounds) (12)
Toes
Flatten foot and sc across top through both sides (6sc), turn
sc in next 3, turn
sc in next 3, turn
sl st across 3, down toe, and into beginning of foot
sc in next 3, turn
sc in next 3, turn
sl st across 3
f/o

Belly
Row 1: ch 3, from 2nd ch 2sc across, ch 1, turn (2)
Row 2-7: inc first and last stitch with sc in-between, ch 1, turn (6 rows)
Row 8-17: sc across (10 rounds) (14)
Row 18: sc, dec, 3sc, sl st 2, 3sc, dec, sc (12)
Row 19: hdc, dec, 2hdc, sl st 2, 2hdc, dec, hdc (10)
f/o

Shell
Round 1: mr 8
Round 2: inc around (16)
Round 3: 2inc, 4sc, 4inc, 4sc, 2inc (24)
Round 4: sc around (24)
Round 5: 2inc, 8sc, 4inc, 8sc, 2inc (32)
Round 6: sc around (32)
Round 7: 2inc, 12sc, 4inc, 12sc, 2inc (40)
Round 8: sc around (40)
sl st f/o

Shell Rim
ch 3
Row 1: sc 2nd from hook sc across, ch 1, turn (2)
Row 2: repeat 2sc, ch 1, turn until long enough to go around shell. (2)
f/o

Elbow Straps
Make 2
ch 3
Row 1: 2nd ch from hook sc across, ch 1, turn (2)
Row 2: sc across (2)
repeat until long enough to go around elbow
f/o

Knee Straps
Make 2
ch 4
Row 1: 2nd ch from hook sc across, ch 1, turn (3)
Row 2: sc across (3)
repeat until long enough to go around knee
f/o

Waist Strap
ch enough to go around the waist, over the shell, and tie in the front
Row 1: 2nd ch from hook sc across
f/o

Construction

Place the headband on the face and poke the safety eyes through both the headband and the head. Secure the eyes. Secure the headband with a few stitches.

The front of the body is the side with the increases, more round than the back side.

Sew the belly piece onto the front of the turtle. The bottom goes slightly between the legs. Pinning in place helps immensely.

Sew the shell onto the back. Again pinning helps! Leave a small opening to stuff before finishing. Sew the shell rim onto the shell where it meets his body.

Sew the arms on either side of the body slightly lower than the neck opening. Easier to do without the head attached.

Sew the feet onto the bottom of the legs.

Place the arm and leg bands on one at a time. Sew the ends together and then secure them into place.

Place a stitch in the waist band on the back of the shell to secure it to the turtle.

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Toothless

Share your finished Toothless on my Facebook page Nichole’s Nerdy Knots!

You can find the pattern on Ravelry.

You can download a text only version for printing here: ToothlessPatternPrint

For pictures and a video tutorial on the wing go here.

Any questions please e-mail me at: nicholesnerdyknots@gmail.com

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Materials

black worsted weight yarn
small amount of red or brown worsted weight yarn (dependent on pref. for tail wing)
4.25mm (G) hook, any hook size that single crochets tightly
tapestry needle
stitch markers

black and green felt or large green safety eyes

fabric glue or embroidery thread to attach eyes

 

Abbreviations/Descriptions
mr: magic ring (example: “mr 4” means make a mr, chain 1, 4 sc inside)
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
hdc: half-double crochet
dec: decrease (sc 2 together or invisible decrease)
inc: increase (2 sc in one stitch)
BLO: back loop only

ch: chain
sl st:
slip stitch
f/o:
fasten off

Notes

You can substitute the magic ring with a ch 2.
Example: “mr 4” would be “ch 2, in 2nd ch from hook sc 4”

MOVIE SPOILERS: If making Toothless from How To Train Your Dragon 2, make an additional spike strip and sew them next to each other down the back. Embroider blue nostrils too if you’d like.

Head
Make 2
Second one omit round 9.
Use a stitch marker for rounds. Will be called “neck marker”.

Round 1: mr 4

Round 2: inc around (8)
Round 3: inc around (16)

Round 4: (sc, inc) repeat around (24)

Round 5: (2sc, inc) repeat around (32)

Round 6: (3sc, inc) repeat around (40)

Round 7: (4sc, inc) repeat around (48)

Round 8: 21sc, inc, sc (place a marker here, “nose marker”), inc, 24sc (50)

Round 9: sc around leave markers in place sl st f/o (50)

See pictures. Put head pieces together right sides facing each other. It does not matter which one is the “top”. Put the two nose markers together. Matching up their stitches use one of the markers to pin them together, removing the other marker. The neck markers at the top will help find the neck opening. You will not sew this gap closed. The neck markers will not line up.

You will sew the halves together with sc around working right to left. Line the pieces up starting at the nose marker. You might need to pin every few stitches until you get to the starting stitch. Make a slip knot as if you are going to start a chain. Pull the slip knot through both pieces starting at the 5th stitch from the neck marker, chain 1, and sc around through both pieces until you are at the 5th stitch from the other neck marker. Do not fasten off. Turn right side out.

 

head1head3head4head2

     head5

 

Neck/Body

See pictures. With the same yarn from sewing the head together
ch 1
Round 1: 24sc, one sc in each seam (24)

Round 2: sc around (24)
Stuff head
Round 3: (inc, 5sc) repeat around (28)
Round 4: sc around (28)

See pictures. Using your head seam as a guide place a (preferably different color from your round marker) marker at each side even with the seam.  There should be a total of 13 stitches between each marker separating the top half from the bottom half.

Replace side markers as you go.

Round 5: sc to and include 1st side marker. The stitch after marker start: (2sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 2sc) finish with sc around to the beginning (31)
Round 6: sc to and include 1st side marker. The stitch after marker start: (3sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 3sc) finish with sc around to the beginning (35)
Remove side markers.
Round 7-15: sc around (9 rounds) (35)

Firmly stuff.

Find middle stitch on bottom (the side with the increases) and mark. Approximately 15th stitch from marker (including marker) but eyeball it and adjust as necessary. Replace middle marker as you go.

See pictures.
Round 16: sc until (not including) 4th stitch from marker: dec, 5sc, dec, sc around to beginning (33)

Round 17: sc until (not including) 3rd stitch from marker: dec, 3sc, dec, sc around to beginning (31)
Round 18: sc around (31)

Make sure center marker is still center, likely have to move over one stitch to the left.

Round 19: sc until (not including) 6th stitch from marker: dec, 2sc, dec, sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc around to beginning (27)

Round 20: sc around (27)

Recenter marker one stitch to the left.
Round 21: sc until (not including) 6th stitch from marker: dec, 2sc, dec, sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc around to beginning (23)

Remove middle marker. Stuff as you go.

Round 22-24: sc around (3 rounds) (23)
Round 25: 6sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 7sc (21)
Round 26-27: sc around (2 rounds) (21)
Round 28: (5sc, dec) repeat around (18)

Round 29: sc around (18)

Round 30: (4sc, dec) repeat around (15)

Round 31: sc around (15)

Round 32: (3sc, dec) repeat around (12)
Round 33-34: sc around (2 rounds) (12)

Round 35: (4sc, dec) repeat around (10)

Round 36-43: sc around (8 rounds) (10)

Round 44: (3sc, dec) repeat around (8)
Round 45-53: sc around (9 rounds) (8)

Round 54: (2sc, dec) repeat around (6)

Round 55-63: sc around (9 rounds) (6)

Round 64: (sc, dec) repeat around(4)
Round 65-67: sc around (3 rounds) Or just go around 12sc, no need for marking rounds.
sl st f/o
Sew end closed.

 neck1 neck2 neck3

How to place row 16 and similar rows afterwards. The blue marker does not count as a stitch. The red marker is where you begin the instructions.

Ear
Make 2
Round 1: mr 4
Round 2: inc around (8)

Round 3-9: sc around (7 rounds) (8)
sl st f/o do not stuff

Small Horn

Make 4
Round 1: mr 4
Round 2-3: sc around (2 rounds) (4)
Round 4: (sc, inc) around (6)
sl st f/o do not stuff

Smallest Horn
Make 2
Follow round 1-3 of “Small Horn”.
sl st f/o do not stuff
Wing Arm
Make 2

Round 1: mr 4

Round 2-3: sc around (2 rounds) (4)

Round 4: sc, inc, 2sc (5)

Round 5-6: sc around (2 rounds) (5)

Round 7: 2sc, inc, 2sc (6)

Round 8-17: sc around (10 rounds)

Round 18: 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc (8)

Round 19-21: sc around (3 rounds) (8)

Round 22: 2sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc (10)
sl st f/o leave a tail for sewing

Wing
Make 2
See pictures. Insert hook into the tip of the “wing arm” and pull through a loop to start a chain. All sl st are in ch 32 until you get to the “wing arm”.
Row 1: ch 32 from tip of wing arm
Row 2: starting 3rd ch from hook 16dc across, sl st next 2 in ch, ch 2 turn
Row 3: from 2nd sl st, 16dc across, (will leave one stitch empty from previous row). ch 1, turn

Row 4: 16sc across, sl st 2, ch 2, turn
Repeat the dc and sc rows with 2 sl st into chain until last chain.

Continue the sc and dc rows as previous up the “wing arm” by sl st directly into it making sure to keep them evenly spaced.  (9 sets of slip stitches)
sl st f/o at the edge of the “wing arm”. Leave long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff.

 wing1 wing2 wing3 wing4 wing5

Back Legs
Make 2
Round 1: mr 6
Round 2: (sc, inc) repeat around (9)

Round 3: sc back loop only around (9)

Round 4-5: sc around (2 rounds) (9)

Round 6: sc, inc, inc, sc around to beginning (11)
Round 7: sc around (11)

Round 8: sc, inc, inc, 3sc, dec, dec, sc (11)

Round 9-10: sc around (2 rounds) (11)

Round 11: 2sc, dec, sc around to beginning (10)

Round 12: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc (8)
sl st f/o leave tail for sewing

Front Legs
Make 2
Round 1: mr 6
Round 2: (sc, inc) repeat around (9)

Round 3: back loop (2sc, inc) repeat around (12)

Round 4: 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec (10)
Round 5: sc around (10)

Round 6: 3sc, dec, sc, dec, 2sc (8)

Round 7-9: sc around (3 rounds) (8)

Round 10: 2sc, dec, 4, sc (7)

Round 11-12: sc around (2 rounds) (7)

sl st f/o leave tail for sewing
Toes
Find front of the leg (knee bend for back legs) and locate middle 4 BLO stitches from round 3 of legs. (This will be easier to do if you wait to stuff. Flatten the legs, the back of the back leg is where the f/o tail is)
insert hook and pull up a loop from the front loop, ch 1, sl st same stitch.
sl st loop of next stitch, ch 1, sl st same stitch
repeat in next loop, 2 more times (4 toes total)
f/o

Small Wings
Make 2
Row 1: ch 2 (leave long tail for sewing)

Row 2: sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn

Row 3: inc, ch 1, turn (2)

Row 4: 2sc, ch 1, turn (2)

Row 5: inc, inc, ch 1, turn (4)

Row 6: inc, 2sc, inc, ch 1, turn (6)

Row 7-8: sc across, ch 1, turn (2 rows) (6)
Row 9: inc, 4sc, inc, ch 1, turn (8)

Row 10: sc across, ch 1, turn (8)

Edge row 11:
(sc, ch 1, sl st same stitch), sl st next stitch, (sc, ch 1, sl st same stitch), sl st next 2, (sc, ch 1, sl st same stitch), sl st next, (sc, ch 1, sl st same stitch)
f/o

Tail Wing
Make one black, one red/brown.
Row 1: ch 9 (leave long tail for sewing)
Row 2: sc across starting at 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn (8)

Row 3: inc, 6sc, ch 1, turn (8)

Row 4: sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Row 5: inc, 5sc, ch 1, turn (7)
Row 6: 3sc, sl st
f/o

Spikes
(ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, ch 1) repeat for 8 spikes
f/o

 

Construction
Sew back legs towards the tail after the chest.

Sew front legs slightly flat, slightly on the sides, and on either side where the chest begins to increase.

Sew wing arms onto body before wings. To sew wings on easier mark where they will go with pins and pull the pins out as you sew them down. The wings should start even with the front legs and they will meet in the middle.

Sew small wings behind big wings.

Sew tail wings at the tip of the tail.

Sew 2 small horns side by side in the middle top of the head.

Sew 2 ears next to the small horns on the top of the head.

Sew 1 small horn next to each ear on the side of the head.

Sew 1 smallest horn next to each small horn towards bottom of head.

Sew spikes down the back starting even with the beginning of the wings.

Make and glue/sew eyes on.

Weave in all ends.

all parts backpin legplacement

Hold paper up to screen to trace for eyes and tail embroidery.

 Dragon Eyes ToothlessSkull